Socially biased beauty standards that have historically favoured light skin, straight hair, and facial features with a proximity to whiteness are inherently anti-Black, and in the context of the on-screen entertainment industry, have resulted in a reality where Black, Indigenous and People of Colour (BIPOC) performers often do not receive equitable treatment within the hair and makeup department.
ACTRA has been working to tackle this issue on multiple levels to achieve the overall goal of BIPOC performers having their hair and makeup needs adequately and consistently met on set.
Throughout summer 2021 and into Independent Production Agreement* (IPA) negotiations with the CMPA and AQPM that fall, ACTRA continued to push for the equitable treatment of BIPOC members in the application of hair and makeup services on set. While the CMPA and AQPM did agree to issue a joint bulletin emphasizing that producers “should” provide these services to performers, neither party would agree to the hair and makeup equity bargaining proposals made by ACTRA to resolve these issues. ACTRA made the decision to file a policy grievance in December 2021 on the basis that this inaction contravenes our IPA and Human Rights legislation.
*The IPA covers the engagement of performers in all film, television and digital media production in Canada (except in British Columbia, which operates under a separate collective agreement negotiated by ACTRA’s local, UBCP/ACTRA). Click here to read the Joint Bulletin issued by the AMPTP, CMPA and UBCP/ACTRA.
The Hair and Makeup Grievance Arbitration with the CMPA and AQPM took place on May 18 and 19, 2023 in a hearing before Arbitrator William Kaplan, which resulted in a settlement being reached. Read the full News Release here. Some of the key terms of settlement include:
Five full days of pre-bargaining on hair and make-up issues prior to the renewal of the IPA, where all parties will endeavour to make joint recommendations for consideration by the parties’ respective bargaining teams when we commence IPA bargaining in Fall of 2024. Typically, bargaining the entire agreement takes approximately two weeks. This pre-bargaining ensures that ample, dedicated time will be allotted to finding joint solutions that will result in creating systemic change on sets, through our Independent Production Agreement.
The creation of a recommended standard of products and equipment necessary for the provision of hair and makeup services to BIPOC Performers
The creation of a tool to help Producers ascertain the skills and competencies required to work with any BIPOC performers who have been cast.
The commitment to work with industry partners to explore opportunities and support the development of existing training initiatives with virtual workshops to address the principles of equity in the provision of hair and makeup services.
The creation of a “Know your Rights” campaign, to remind performers of their rights on set
Joint efforts from all parties to lobby the provincial governments to update the certification standards for hairstyling and college course offerings for makeup services for BIPOC individuals.
The commitment to work cooperatively in accordance with Article A503 in the IPA, and address allegation of discrimination and harassment related to the provision of hair and makeup services expeditiously.
If you are an ACTRA member who would like to submit a lived experience story on this topic, please click here:
We recognize that sharing past traumas can be triggering and encourage members to utilize their mental health benefits through AFBS, or reach out to HAVEN or Calltime Mental Health should you need to to seek counselling. If you are submitting an experience regarding a set that you are currently working on, please contact your local Branch Representative and cc Jenn Paul (jpaul@actra.ca), Director, Diversity, Equity, Inclusion and Belonging, so it can be addressed appropriately with the production.
CREATING POSITIVE CHANGE IN THIS AREA IS POSSIBLE IF WE WORK TOGETHER:
I'm a Performer, how can I help?
Share your lived experience with ACTRA, to support the evidence collection for the grievance that ACTRA has filed against the CMPA & AQPM.
Speak up for your colleagues when you witness them receiving inequitable hair and makeup treatment.
Contact ACTRA (or HAVEN, if after hours) when you witness harassment or discrimination taking place on set.
Share this page, the articles and panel discussions listed on it to help educate members of the industry and keep this topic top of mind for industry decision makers.
Add your name to Jill Andrew's "Protect Our Crowns" petition calling on the Government of Ontario and Ministry of Labour, Training and Skills Development to mandate culturally responsive-training, specific to Black and textured hair in hairstyling education and practice across Ontario.
I’m a Producer or Department Head, how can I help?
Hire qualified crew to adequately take care of your cast. Ask the right questions during the hiring process, and be specific about the needs required of the cast when confirming qualifications. Don’t just rely on resume credits. Ask for portfolio photos of the hair styles and textures your production will be featuring. Ask them to provide references of BIPOC performers that they have worked on who can vouch for their work.
Ensure that the hired stylists have the right tools to do their jobs effectively. Ask about their kit and if they have the necessary products and equipment to adequately service your cast, or if they require additional kit fees to round out their tools and products appropriately.
Budget appropriately for the department. Will your cast need to be compensated for additional processing time outside of their expected workday? Will your stylists need to purchase any additional tools or products? Will you need to book additional dailies for days where complex styles might need additional help?
Remember that it is your responsibility to uphold a work environment that is free of harassment and discrimination. Read the Joint Hair and Makeup Bulletin for reminders for best practices for ensuring hair and makeup equity on your set.
Take LinkedIn's 10 Free Courses to help end hair discrimination and support a more equitable work environment
I’m a Director/Writer, how can I help?
Ensure that the characters are being portrayed authentically – especially regarding their hair and makeup looks. Read the directives published in the Being Seen Reports and consider if your depiction of the character might perpetuate any harmful stereotypes. Is the hairstyle you’ve chosen a realistic choice given the activities the character will be taking part in?
I’m an Assistant Director, how can I help?
Fix it in Prep. Don’t forget to speak with the Director and Hair and Makeup team to ensure that you have a fulsome understanding of the hair and makeup needs (and associated in-chair times) for the production.
Build adequate time into the schedule for the hair styles and makeup that is required of the characters. The reality is that some hair and makeup styles require significantly more time than others. This needs to be communicated about in advance and scheduled accordingly to ensure that performers and stylists are not being rushed due to poor planning.
I’m a Hairstylist, how can I help?
Communicate with the talent in advance of the production. Make sure that you fully understand their unique needs before arriving to set, so that you can prepare accordingly to have the correct equipment and products with you to meet their needs to the best of your ability.
Communicate with the Producer and your Department Head - especially if the performer might be required to do any special washing or preparation of their hair that may require additional compensation for them, or if you need to purchase additional items for your kit.
Communicate with the Assistant Director – be sure that they know exactly how long you will need to style each performer so that they can schedule the day accordingly.
Don’t take things personally. Many BIPOC performers have grown accustomed to years of getting to set and finding a hairstylist who either doesn’t know how to or doesn’t want to style their hair, or have been through traumatic experiences on set where their hair has been permanently damaged. It will take time, effort, and patience to heal this trauma and rebuild the trust that has been lost. Please be understanding of this and don’t take things personally.
Participate in ongoing training and development. Seek out opportunities to up-skill and improve your ability to work on all hair textures.
I’m a Makeup Artist, how can I help?
Communicate with the talent in advance of the production. Make sure that you fully understand their unique needs before arriving to set, so that you can prepare accordingly to have the correct equipment and products with you to meet their needs to the best of your ability.
Communicate with the Producer and your Department Head - especially if you need to purchase additional items for your kit to best suit the skin tones and types you will be working on.
Communicate with the Assistant Director – be sure that they know exactly how long you will need to work on each performer so that they can schedule the day accordingly.
Don’t take things personally. Many BIPOC performers have grown accustomed to years of getting to set and finding a makeup artist who is inexperienced in working with their skin tone or facial structure, or doesn’t have the correct range of makeup shades for their skin. Many have had traumatic experiences on set that have resulted in them feeling as though they need to bring their own personal products with them, in case the makeup artist is ill-equipped. It will take time, effort, and patience to heal this trauma and rebuild the trust that has been lost. Please be understanding of this and don’t take things personally.
Participate in ongoing training and development. Seek out opportunities to up-skill and improve your ability to work on all skin tones and facial structures.
Hair and Makeup Equity in the Film & Television Industry, featuring Khadijah Roberts-Abdullah, Samantha Kaine, TK Prentice-Cupid, Sharon Lewis, Peggy Kyriakidou, Angela Mastronardi and moderated by Lisa Michelle Cornelius (February 2022)
Media Coverage and other updates
Click here to see recent media coverage and other updates
Ontario MPP Jill Andrew presents a motion at the Ontario legislature with an accompanying petition to have the curriculum at hair schools amended to include textured hair. The motion was passed on March 10, 2022.
The CROWN Act: The CROWN Act, which stands for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” is a law that prohibits race-based hair discrimination, which is the denial of employment and educational opportunities because of hair texture or protective hairstyles including braids, locs, twists or bantu knots in the United States.
